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How long, I wondered, before you came here and stayed in a lodge, rode a pressurized cable car to the col for lunch? How long until any of us could stand as close to space as you can get on Earth?It was late afternoon, the valleys half-shadowed. Fred and I had descended 4,000 vertical feet in the last 7 hours. We were still at 17,000 feet, but the air here felt as thick replica Cartier W50002N2 WoMen's watchand rich as if we were in Rio. Wed been hiking through a deep gash in the glacier, but now the views opened up again and there was Everest, filling up the southern sky. I was so used to it by now, I barely took notice.

It was just there, like a mural painted on the horizon.It had been a strange and remarkable season—the weather nearly perfect, stable and warm, almost one continuous summit day since the middle of May. Some speculated about global warming—bad for civilization; good for high-altitude mountaineering. Whatever the case, hundreds had summitted over the past few weeks, replica Cartier watches Santos 100 watchand nearly everyone voiced their surprise that conditions had remained so good for so long. In two days, Id be on a bus back to Kathmandu. Two days after that: boarding a series of flights back to the U.S., a grueling 40-hour journey shoehorned into a coach-class seat. I was hoping that I might be returning having advanced my understanding of why people came here to climb this big dumb extrusion of rock, but the truth was I had no deeper insights than when Id arrived. Everyones reasons seemed different, personal, in some cases unexplainable, even to them.